The A8 Plus from Anet is an affordable 3D Printer with a large print volume available as a DIY kit or semi-assembled, but is it the right machine for you? Watch to find out!

Purchase Links:
A8 PLUS DIY (Gearbest) –
A8 PLUS (Anet Store) –

My PrusaSlic3r settings for the Anet A8 Plus –

Models Shown:
Gayer-Anderson Cat –

Cave Entrance –

A8 Plus Cooling Fan Upgrade –

Support Maker’s Muse on Patreon

50 3D Printing Tips and Tricks –

3D Printing Essentials –

Nguồn:https://madisonrep.org/

29 Comments

Kostasoflow

February 16, 2020

Still have my Anet A8 since May 2017 still printing fine not problems with it

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Rotten Brainz

February 16, 2020

When I saw I had to get it from dickhead china i was like meh

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Rotten Brainz

February 16, 2020

when some of the reviewers say "all these opinions are my own" i dont trust them all.

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broderp

February 16, 2020

My only question is for Angus. WTF are you wearing?🤔

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Susamruad Yilak

February 16, 2020

Thanks for this video. Finally, I bought one!

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Dagon Naxos

February 16, 2020

My highly upgraded A8 that I bought almost 4 years ago off of GearBest is currently running in the lab right now! I've put over 8000m of filament through it and have 1000 hours of print time on the original bed, original steppers, original couplers and z-rods. I still level the bed and x carriage by hand with a digital caliper and I feed it gcode via an OctoPi. It sits on a plastic AV cart on rubber casters, padded with playpen foam blocks. My wiring is all custom, with a divorced stock mainboard, high output MOSFETs, soldered heat bed with strain relief, fusing for the bed, hotend and control board and it's all powered (except for yhe Pi) off of an Astron 30A linear power supply (not switching). The Pi is powered by a 5v 2.5A wall wart for an old cellphone and everything is connected to an APC 1500VA BBU at the bottom of the cart, in case of power loss. It will run a PLA print for 5.5 hours before bbu exhaustion.

I've been shopping for a bigger build volume and metal construction for awhile and this might be the way I go. I'll probably get some extra aluminium and box out the frame, put a duet and a touch screen on it and put better steppers in and put my mosfet setup on it. I can probably bulletproof it for the same price as a CR10 pro.

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AzurusNova

February 16, 2020

I have this same printer.
I am upgrading the printer controller with the BTT SKR v1.4 Turbo as the original has a faulty controller chip for the extruder.

One of my other findings is that the reported build area of 300x300x350 is really not that. I have found that I am short 30mm within the area of the clips that hold the glass to the print bed, and on the Z axis, I am nowhere near the 350 limit, I bottom out at the top of the printer way before getting to the 350mm mark. On the X axis, I can only get 295 from either edge of the print bed before the nozzle is over the edge.

I am curious of what your findings are.

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Chris Alton

February 16, 2020

how do you think it compares with the e10 / e16 at about $20 more?

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smoothdog001

February 16, 2020

The Y axis was not wired wrong Angus, you mounted the motor to the wrong side of the plate, so it's spinning in the opposite direction of how it was intended to work.

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Argle Bargle

February 16, 2020

I have an original A8, never had issues but it's a pain in the butt. It's going to become a laser etcher and my next 3D printer will be SLA or none at all. I'm tired of messing with bed leveling, cheap extruders, and 'proof of concept' sold as a working unit.

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Kyle Anderson

February 16, 2020

So at this price point would you go with the Ender 3 or this printer? I was also recommended the Hypercube Evolution but haven't found a review of it.

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Henry McCausland

February 16, 2020

just received mine the rods are hardend in my case so thats good, the lcd cables are longer than yours

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Eric Barnett

February 16, 2020

That wavy pattern artifact means that somewhere there is a harmonic vibration happening when the axis moves probably from the belt teeth. I had this issue on the Y axis of my ender 3 when I tried to use the 3 point bed leveling plate you can buy. What was happening in my case, was the Y axis belt rolling across the smooth idler roller was creating a vibration, which was then being essentially amplified and transmitted into my part through the springs on the bed. Especially since the 3 point solution you can buy is kind of flawed in that it's a less stable mounting system, even if it is in theory more flat. The solution in my case was to replace the bed leveling springs with 4 solid silicone mounts since I use ABL anyway, and switch to toothed idler rollers. That got rid of the pattern entirely.

If I had to guess, either your belts are causing it, or the bearings themselves. The bed springs might also benefit from being compressed more so vibrations don't transfer through them as much. If the wavy pattern is spaced the same or close to the tooth spacing on your belts, that's probably the source of the vibration. If the printer uses non-toothed idlers, swapping them to toothed will probably fix the problem, if that pattern is from what I think it is. Also switching to the plastic bushings might help as well. I'm suprised it's showing up on both axis though, I've only seen that pattern produced on the Y axis of an i3 design.

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Bo Bo

February 16, 2020

I would almost buy this just to immediately upgrade the ridiculous y axis with the extruder to v slot aluminum and rollers like the rest of the printers out there. Why go this far an not change that part?

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George I

February 16, 2020

I have an original A8 and one of the first things I did was flash it with Marlin. You don't want to burn your house down by mistake.

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Henry McCausland

February 16, 2020

i just manage to snag it for 160 euro from aliexpres shiped from spain it is my third printer and second printer within the month. im exited

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Danial

February 16, 2020

Time to turn off my old A8 thats snapping motor mounts as it prints and not burning my shed down. rip old boy better luck next time.

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astroeste123

February 16, 2020

What is a better ender 3 pr or anet 8 plus?

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a kiwi

February 16, 2020

I have just finished assembling mine which I bought after seeing this review. I am old enough to have cut my teeth on Meccano and have been assembling PCs for a very long time so the build went smoothly.

– I put Igus bushings in directly on X and Y axis, I am very pleased I did, the supplied ones are very noisy
– cables are much longer in my kit
– no ptfe tube in the kit
– several (3 or 4) errors in the printed manual but watching the assembly video clears things up. Some photos in the manual are too small to be of any use
– the biggest pain is cable management

The quality of the finished printer is satisfactory for 155€ delivered. Now I just need to learn how to 3D print… =;) Once I am up and running this seems to be a good base printer for upgrades like BL Touch, 32 bit MB with WiFi and a quality hot end/extruder.

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Gabriele Merenda

February 16, 2020

Great and clear review. But can i ask between this and the anet e16 wich i should be prefer?

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GoatZilla

February 16, 2020

That's nice, but an incomplete way to prevent thermal runaway.

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Michael W. S. Grimm

February 16, 2020

picked mine up for $213 from amazon

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cgwworldministries

February 16, 2020

Cheap? $349 “rolls eyes” if I’m paying that much I’m just going to buy a prusa i3 mk3 for 749. Wake be up when I’m not paying 3x the amount they’re actually worth. I’m not trusting them after my old a8 melted down. I like my house and I would like to keep it.

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hussein hussein

February 16, 2020

Hey,

I have been having issues with my Anet A8 Plus. When I try to set the temperature of the nozzel to i.e 30C it increases dramatically to 40C. I have replaced my thermostat 3 times, still same issue. I have had prints before but after 2 weeks it started to have this issue. I figured the thermostat is functioning correctly so I tried to upgrade the firmware since lots of people have found that helpful. I upgraded to 2.0 Marlin and I still had the same issue. So I looked into other discussions online and I saw that the MOFSET might have been the issue. So I brought a new board. I then installed Marlin again on the new board, and it is still showing the same issue. Any thoughts as to what may be the problem?

Thanks

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Social Gamer

February 16, 2020

This is only going for a meager $138 on Amazon usd.

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Bryson Whelchel

February 16, 2020

Hi I recently picked one of these up and I can not get a good print off of it. When its attempting to print the X axis will work its way to the left and will mess up the print or get to the point it dumps filament on my desk not the build table but my actual desk that it sits on lol. So far not too thrilled with it but I knew going into it I would have to figure it out. I watched a few of your videos and I love my monoprice mp mini delta. We had to tweak the gcode on that for it to work properly but I can't find much on the anet a8 plus and I need help from anyone

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Michael Nichol

February 16, 2020

Just bought it! Comes thursday!!

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Carlos Molina

February 16, 2020

hello everybody. I have made a little bit of research, and i want to get my first ever 3d printer. Can´t quite decide between the Ender 3 or the Anet A8 Plus. Any suggestions?

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Raphael Aguirre

February 16, 2020

the texture comes from the fact there is no idlers teeth pulley on the X/Y

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